El Valle is a magical place for a weekend
away from Panama's lowland heat --a fertile
volcanic valley filled with bright flowers,
square trees and golden frogs, just an hour
and a half's drive from Panama City.To get there, turn off the Inter-American Highway shortly after San Carlos and head up into the hills. After 40 minutes or so you will catch your first glimpse of the valley spread out far below you, ringed by steep hills. Most of the houses on the valley floor are surrounded by trees, so the overall impression is still green and unspoiled. It can be hot during the day, but it feels less oppressive than on the coast and is considerably cooler at night. If you're using public transport, minibuses regularly leave the Curundu bus station for El Valle and taxis can take you round the sights once you arrive.
There is no real center to the town, but if you know where to look you'll find more places to visit per square kilometer than anywhere else in Panama. The first priorities for most tourists are the famous square trees and golden frogs.
The best place to see golden frogs is at El Nispero, a small zoo with a wide selection of native animals and birds, mostly in good-sized cages. The grounds are landscaped with artificial streams and the backdrop is the most dramatic of El Valle's hills. It's a pleasant place to spend an hour wandering round.
A major draw to El Valle is the market held every Sunday morning in a market hall on the main road. Apart from vegetables, fruit, plants and flowers, you can buy handicrafts such as wooden bowls, paintings on wood, hammocks, molas, baskets and ceramics. Prices are usually negotiable. The popularity of the market has encouraged a string of handicrafts shops to open nearby. Many travel agents in Panama City offer day trips.
There are several waterfalls around the valley
that are beautiful at any time of year and
impressive during the rainy season. The most
frequently visited is El Macho, a five-minute
drive from the center. The waterfall is a
few minutes' walk off the road on a path through
cool, thick forest. The entrance fee includes
the loan of a bamboo walking stick to help
you cross the sometimes slippery stones. Also
at El Macho, if you're not scared of heights,
you can try the Canopy Adventure, an unusual
way to get a bird's eye view of the rainforest.
You start by walking uphill for about half
an hour with a knowledgeable guide who will
point out any birds and animals he spots and
tell you about the trees you pass. Then comes
the adventurous part-- put on thick gloves
and a harness, attach the harness to a rope
and whiz down a series of ropes suspended
high up in the trees, passing over the waterfall.
El Valle also has some petroglyphs -- rocks decorated with what are believed to be pre-Colombian art. The rocks with their strange designs are worth a visit, if only for the walk there that gives you lovely views of the valley. It's about a five-minute walk from the clearing where you park your car (sign posted from the main road), and you can always continue further uphill past the petroglyphs. The path leads on upstream past several small waterfalls and eventually twists and turns towards the top of La India Dormida -- a hill in the shape of a sleeping woman.
If none of the attractions appeals, just spend your time enjoying perhaps the best thing about El Valle -- the fresher climate and its natural beauty. Serious walkers and birdwatchers will find plenty to do.
Written by Emma Griffiths
Waterfall "El Macho"
The "El Macho" waterfall, which is the largest in the region(70 meters/210 feet), is located just outside of town. The waterfall is open from 8:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m., 7 days a week and costs $3.50 to enter for foreigners. (Along side the entrance to the waterfall is the office of Canopy Tour, which offers tree-top canopy exploration). There are two short trails in the park are some good photographic opportunities, especially during the rainy season when the river has plenty of water flowing. There is a small pool situated at the waterfall's base, however, you are not permitted to enter beyond a certain point.
How to Get There:
Continue on the main road through town, passing the church on the left side. You'll soon cross over a short bridge as the road bends to the right. Shortly thereafter, there's an intersection with a supermarket on the left side. Turn right here and continue on this road until you reach the entrance to the waterfall on the left side of the road. You should have no problem finding your way. From the center of town it's about a 20-25 minute walk, you should have no problem finding your way. Tel. 983-6547.
Pozos Termales (Hot Water Springs)
These hot water springs, which consist of approximately 5 small pools, are located just off the main road in El Valle. Open from 8:00 a.m.- 5:00 p.m. daly, it costs $1.00 cents for adults and $0.50 for children. One of the springs contains therapeutic mud, while the other pools offer bathers with warm, hot springs.
How to Get There:
Continue on the main road through town, passing the church on the left side. About 2-3 blocks later you'll turn left and continue straight down this road to the very end, where you'll find the entrance to the springs. It's about a 5-10 minute walk, you'll pass some beautiful privately owned homes along the way.
Square Trees (Arboles Quadrados)
Located just behind Hotel Campestre, these particular trees have a square trunk at the base, which becomes round as it moves upward, taking on the look of a normal tree. While there are only a few trees of its kind left, it is worth a quick look if time permits. The trail leading to the trees starts from the right side of the hotel, just behind and to the right of a small building. The trail is short, well marked, and easy to walk. In the event that you can't find the trail, just ask someone at the hotel and they will gladly assist you.
Orchid Nursery
For those who love orchids/flowers we recommend you visit the Orchid Nursery just off the main road. Managed by the Association of Orchid Producers from El Valle and Cabuya, this facility concentrates on conserving endangered native orchids and promoting ecotourism and environmental education. Here you'll find a wide assortment of different orchids, in particular endemic species like orchid "El Espíritu Santo", which happens to be the National Flower. The facility is open from 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. daily and costs $2.00 for adults, $1.00 for students, and $0.75 for children under 15 years of age.
How to Get There:
As you're entering into El Valle, just after passing the Texaco station and crossing the first bridge, you'll see black signs pointing to the Nursery. Turn left here and continue straight along this road, the nursery is at the very end of the road. Tel. 983-6472.
Cerro Gaital Natural Monument
Just north of El Valle de Anton and forming part of the volcano's rim is Cerro Gaital, a vibrant cloud forest offering outstanding views and terrific birding opportunities.
To reach Cerro Gaital you will need to take a public bus or walk to "La Mesa", an area located just north of El Valle, further up the road that passes in front of the waterfall "El Macho". There are public buses (look for small mini-buses that have "La Mesa" written on them) that can take you to and from "La Mesa" for about $0.50 each way, or you can walk there along the paved/gravel road, which from town could take anywhere from 2 - 2 1/2 hours depending on your condition. It is mostly uphill and you'll pass numerous poultry farms along the way. Whether you travel by bus or walk you will need to reach the farm called "Alemi Toledo" - the bus will drop you off right in front of the farm. From here, turn right at the intersection and walk a short distance along the gravel road until you reach the park entrance, which is managed by ANAM. Note - beyond the "El Macho" waterfall there are no stores, so bring what you need, i.e. water, etc.
From the park entrance your hike begins with a mild uphill climb on a flat, grassy surface. After a short walk, you'll turn left at the sign and proceed up the stairs to the trail's starting point. The trail, known as "Sendero Convento" is a simple loop that measures 1.5 miles (2.48 km) in length and consists of three small resting areas and a lookout (El Mirador). The trail is mostly uphill, enclosed (meaning no open views) and very well maintained, with three resting areas, each consisting of a small cleared area. Most will probably not need much more than 30 minutes to reach the lookout, this in spite of the fact that the trail sign reads 2 hours. Upon reaching the lookout you'll find a relatively stable wooden platform on which to stand, offering terrific views of El Valle and the Pacific Ocean, weather permitting. You can return via the same portion of the trail or select the other section to complete the loop, either way it's all downhill to the trail entrance. While 2 hours are trail sign indicates 2 hours to complete the hike you will probably not need much more than 30 minutes to reach the lookout. If you're a plant/fern lover it will take longer.
Cerro Gaital is often covered in clouds, and during certain months of the year you can expect heavy winds and rain, so it might be a good idea to take a wind breaker, rain gear or sweater. In addition, the weather is very unpredictable and changes quickly, so don't be fooled by how it looks from the town of El Valle. Best to prepare for the unexpected!
Cerro Gaital is open Monday - Saturday and costs $5.00 for foreigners.
Petroglyphs
A 20-25 minute walk from town, the Petroglyphs (Piedras Pintadas) are located at the base of the trail that leads to The Sleeping Indian "La India Dormida" (see below). The inscriptions are not overly impressive, but worth a visit if you have not seen anything like it before. All of the writings can be found on one large vertical rock face. There is no mention as to what they signify.
How to Get There:
Continue on the main road through town, passing the church on the left side. You'll soon cross over a short bridge as the road bends to the right. Shortly thereafter, there's an intersection with a bus station on the right side. Turn left here and walk straight to the first corner, where you make a right turn - there is a sign here pointing to the "piedras pintadas". You'll cross a small bridge, then continue straight until you reach the entrance on the left side. The cost to enter is just $0.25 and they're open from 7:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. every day. At the entrance there are a few vendors selling tourist items and bathroom facilities. The path to the petroglyphs is cemented, so it's a very easy walk, just a few minutes from the entrance.
The Sleeping Indian (La India Dormida)
The Sleeping Indian is a chain of hills who's formation resembles the shape of a sleeping indian, and like Cerro Gaital, help form part of the volcano's rim. Situated on the western most portion of the rim and clearly visible from town, the Sleeping Indian acquired her name based on a local legend.
The hike to the top takes approx. 30-45 minutes depending on your physical condition. The trail, which is further along the same trail that leads to the Petroglyphs, is mostly uphill and comprised primarily of dirt, clay and stones.
Just minutes after passing the petroglyphs you'll reach the first of two waterfalls, "Chorro El Escondido", which is situated just off the trail to the left. The waterfall is not very high or strong, but there's a nice pool where you can swim and it's positioned inside a protected cove. Once back on the trail and shortly after resuming your climb you'll cross over the river on a cement bridge, leaving the river off to your right. Just a bit further ahead you reach the second, larger waterfall known as "Chorro El Enamorado", which has two distinct sections. Unfortunately, there is no pool in which to swim. From here, continue along the trail until you reach a large rock residing along the trail itself, on its right side. Just moments after passing this rock you'll need to turn left up a relatively steep incline - there is a sign the points to "La India Dormida" up high on a tree trunk on the left side of the trail - look for it. (The same trail you are on continues straight ahead, so make sure you turn left at the appropriate spot, otherwise you'll find yourself further up the mountain way away from where you need to be.) This portion of the trail is a bit steeper and soon you'll be walking uphill along a barbed wire fence with wooden posts, off to your left - this is a private farm. At the top, turn left and stay on the trail as it hugs the farm, this will lead you directly to the Sleeping Indian. There are sections with hand railings and wooden steps, so you'll know for sure you're heading in the right direction. Note - shortly after turning left at the top of the barbed wire fence there is a break in the trail that leads downhill and to the right, which you can also take if you like. If you decide to take this route, walk down the trail until you reach the intersection, turn left and follow this trail to the Sleeping Indian. Regardless of which route you take, the trail comes up on the backside of the hill, wish has very low cut grass and is very open.
Once you reach the top there are a series of trails that connect the hills, as well as large rocks where you can rest. You'll have terrific views of the town of El Valle, Pacific Ocean, and surrounding valley's. As with Cerro Gaital, the wind and rain can be quite strong, so wear appropriate clothing.
The trail is open 7 days a week and costs $1.25 for foreigners. Upon request, guides can be hired for approx. $15.00.
El Nispero Plant Nursery & Zoo (Golden Frogs)
The Nispero Plant Nursery & Zoo is an active nursery and contains numerous plant species, in additional to several different animals species including monkeys, birds, iguanas, caiman, etc. (the cages are somewhat small, but well marked) There is a very well maintained trail that passes through the entire property, which takes approximately 1-2 hours to complete, depending on your interest. Lots of birds can be seen here, so for birders this would probably be a very worthwhile visit.
A recently constructed frog exhibit is situated mid way through the trail, which contains 10-15 small displays, including the famous "golden frogs". As well, several other indigenous frogs from the area and throughout Panama are present. It's very well presented and offers visitors a wonderful oppportunity to see these fascinating reptiles up close. There is no additional fee to enter into the exhibit.
How To Get There:
Turn right off the main road at the police station, which is situated just before the "Santa Librada" restaurant. Continue straight until you reach the fire station on the right side, where you turn right. Follow along this road for 5-10 minutes until you reach the entrance on the left side. The Zispero Zoo & Nursury is open from 7:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m. daily. Tel. 983-6142.
IPAT Office (Tourism Office in Valle del Anton)
Panama's Tourism Institute has an office in the center of Valle del Anton (tel. 983-6474), situated just after the central market. They have maps of the local community, which indicate all of the major tourist attractions; well worth a visit. The office is open from 7:30 a.m. - 3:30 p.m. Tuesday, Thursday - Sunday. It is closed Monday and Wednesday.
How to Get to Valle del Anton
Buses depart Panama City from the bus terminal in Albrook. They are small minibuse and most are air-conditioned. The trip last approximately 2-2 1/2 hours depending on traffic, and the cost is $3.50 per person. Most of the trip is along the Pan-American highway, with the last 28 km/45 miles heading into the mountain region.
From Panama City, buses depart for El Valle from 6:30 a.m. - 7:00 p.m., and from El Valle to Panama City from 3:45 a.m. - 3:50 p.m., Monday - Saturday. On Sundays, buses depart Panama City between 6:30 a.m. - 9:00 a.m. and again from 2:00 p.m. - 6:00 p.m., and from El Valle between 12:00 p.m. - 6:00 p.m. Tel. 983-6446 (El Valle) and 314-6862 (Panama City)
If you decide to stay after hours in El Valle, there are local buses that offer service until 6:00 p.m. - 7:00 p.m. that for $1.00 will transport you from El Valle to the Panamerican Highway, where you can get on any bus en route to Panama City.
