El Valle is a magical place for a weekend
away from Panama's lowland heat --a fertile
volcanic valley filled with bright flowers,
square trees and golden frogs, just an hour
and a half's drive from Panama City.To get there, turn off the Inter-American Highway shortly after San Carlos and head up into the hills. After 40 minutes or so you will catch your first glimpse of the valley spread out far below you, ringed by steep hills. Most of the houses on the valley floor are surrounded by trees, so the overall impression is still green and unspoiled. It can be hot during the day, but it feels less oppressive than on the coast and is considerably cooler at night. If you're using public transport, minibuses regularly leave the Curundu bus station for El Valle and taxis can take you round the sights once you arrive.
There is no real center to the town, but if you know where to look you'll find more places to visit per square kilometer than anywhere else in Panama. The first priorities for most tourists are the famous square trees and golden frogs.
The best place to see golden frogs is at El Nispero, a small zoo with a wide selection of native animals and birds, mostly in good-sized cages. The grounds are landscaped with artificial streams and the backdrop is the most dramatic of El Valle's hills. It's a pleasant place to spend an hour wandering round.
A major draw to El Valle is the market held every Sunday morning in a market hall on the main road. Apart from vegetables, fruit, plants and flowers, you can buy handicrafts such as wooden bowls, paintings on wood, hammocks, molas, baskets and ceramics. Prices are usually negotiable. The popularity of the market has encouraged a string of handicrafts shops to open nearby. Many travel agents in Panama City offer day trips.
There are several waterfalls around the valley
that are beautiful at any time of year and
impressive during the rainy season. The most
frequently visited is El Macho, a five-minute
drive from the center. The waterfall is a
few minutes' walk off the road on a path through
cool, thick forest. The entrance fee includes
the loan of a bamboo walking stick to help
you cross the sometimes slippery stones. Also
at El Macho, if you're not scared of heights,
you can try the Canopy Adventure, an unusual
way to get a bird's eye view of the rainforest.
You start by walking uphill for about half
an hour with a knowledgeable guide who will
point out any birds and animals he spots and
tell you about the trees you pass. Then comes
the adventurous part-- put on thick gloves
and a harness, attach the harness to a rope
and whiz down a series of ropes suspended
high up in the trees, passing over the waterfall.
El Valle also has some petroglyphs -- rocks decorated with what are believed to be pre-Colombian art. The rocks with their strange designs are worth a visit, if only for the walk there that gives you lovely views of the valley. It's about a five-minute walk from the clearing where you park your car (sign posted from the main road), and you can always continue further uphill past the petroglyphs. The path leads on upstream past several small waterfalls and eventually twists and turns towards the top of La India Dormida -- a hill in the shape of a sleeping woman.
If none of the attractions appeals, just spend your time enjoying perhaps the best thing about El Valle -- the fresher climate and its natural beauty. Serious walkers and birdwatchers will find plenty to do.
Written by Emma Griffiths
Waterfall "El Macho"
The "El Macho" waterfall, which is the largest in the region(70 meters/210 feet), is located just outside of town. The waterfall is open from 8:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m., 7 days a week and costs $3.50 to enter for foreigners. (Along side the entrance to the waterfall is the office of Canopy Tour, which offers tree-top canopy exploration). There are two short trails in the park are some good photographic opportunities, especially during the rainy season when the river has plenty of water flowing. There is a small pool situated at the waterfall's base, however, you are not permitted to enter beyond a certain point.
How to Get There:
Continue on the main road through town, passing the church on the left side. You'll soon cross over a short bridge as the road bends to the right. Shortly thereafter, there's an intersection with a supermarket on the left side. Turn right here and continue on this road until you reach the entrance to the waterfall on the left side of the road. You should have no problem finding your way. From the center of town it's about a 20-25 minute walk, you should have no problem finding your way. Tel. 983-6547.
Pozos Termales (Hot Water Springs)
These hot water springs, which consist of approximately 5 small pools, are located just off the main road in El Valle. Open from 8:00 a.m.- 5:00 p.m. daly, it costs $1.00 cents for adults and $0.50 for children. One of the springs contains therapeutic mud, while the other pools offer bathers with warm, hot springs.
How to Get There:
Continue on the main road through town, passing the church on the left side. About 2-3 blocks later you'll turn left and continue straight down this road to the very end, where you'll find the entrance to the springs. It's about a 5-10 minute walk, you'll pass some beautiful privately owned homes along the way.
Square Trees (Arboles Quadrados)
Located just behind Hotel Campestre, these particular trees have a square trunk at the base, which becomes round as it moves upward, taking on the look of a normal tree. While there are only a few trees of its kind left, it is worth a quick look if time permits. The trail leading to the trees starts from the right side of the hotel, just behind and to the right of a small building. The trail is short, well marked, and easy to walk. In the event that you can't find the trail, just ask someone at the hotel and they will gladly assist you.
Orchid Nursery
For those who love orchids/flowers we recommend you visit the Orchid Nursery just off the main road. Managed by the Association of Orchid Producers from El Valle and Cabuya, this facility concentrates on conserving endangered native orchids and promoting ecotourism and environmental education. Here you'll find a wide assortment of different orchids, in particular endemic species like orchid "El Espíritu Santo", which happens to be the National Flower. The facility is open from 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. daily and costs $2.00 for adults, $1.00 for students, and $0.75 for children under 15 years of age.
How to Get There:
As you're entering into El Valle, just after passing the Texaco station and crossing the first bridge, you'll see black signs pointing to the Nursery. Turn left here and continue straight along this road, the nursery is at the very end of the road. Tel. 983-6472.
Petroglyphs
A 20-25 minute walk from town, the Petroglyphs (Piedras Pintadas) are located at the base of the trail that leads to the "India Dormida". The inscriptions are not overly impressive, but worth a visit if you have not seen anything like it before. All of the writings can be found on one large vertical rock face. There is no mention as to what they signify.
How to Get There:
Continue on the main road through town, passing the church on the left side. You'll soon cross over a short bridge as the road bends to the right. Shortly thereafter, there's an intersection with a supermarket on the left side. Turn left here and walk straight to the first corner, where you make a right turn. There is a sign here pointing to the "piedras pintadas". Stay straight on this road for some time, there will be an intersection and you'll cross a small bridge just before reaching the entrance on the left side. The cost to enter is just $0.25 and they're open from 7:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. every day. At the entrance there are a few vendors selling tourist items and bathroom facilities. The path to the petroglyphs is cemented, so it's a very easy walk, just a few minutes from the entrance.
Note: if you wish to continue up the hill to the "India Dormida" you can hire a guide at the entrance for just a few dollars, perhaps $4.00. It is recommended, particularly if you don't know the area. The hike to the top takes about 1 1/2 hours, depending on your physical condition and the trail conditions. We recommend you take raingrear with you.
El Nispero Plant Nursery & Zoo (Golden Frogs)
The Nispero Plant Nursery & Zoo is an active nursery and contains numerous plant species, in additional to several different animals species including monkeys, birds, iguanas, caiman, etc. (the cages are somewhat small, but well marked) There is a very well maintained trail that passes through the entire property, which takes approximately 1-2 hours to complete, depending on your interest. Lots of birds can be seen here, so for birders this would probably be a very worthwhile visit.
A recently constructed frog exhibit is situated mid way through the trail, which contains 10-15 small displays, including the famous "golden frogs". As well, several other indigenous frogs from the area and throughout Panama are present. It's very well presented and offers visitors a wonderful oppportunity to see these fascinating reptiles up close. There is no additional fee to enter into the exhibit.
How To Get There:
Turn right off the main road at the police station, which is situated just before the "Santa Librada" restaurant. Continue straight until you reach the fire station on the right side, where you turn right. Follow along this road for 5-10 minutes until you reach the entrance on the left side. The Zispero Zoo & Nursury is open from 7:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m. daily. Tel. 983-6142.
IPAT Office (Tourism Office in Valle del Anton)
Panama's Tourism Institute has an office in the center of Valle del Anton (tel. 983-6474), situated just after the central market. They have maps of the local community, which indicate all of the major tourist attractions; well worth a visit. The office is open from 7:30 a.m. - 3:30 p.m. Tuesday, Thursday - Sunday. It is closed Monday and Wednesday.
How to Get to Valle del Anton
Buses depart Panama City from the bus terminal in Albrook. They are small minibuse and most are air-conditioned. The trip last approximately 2-2 1/2 hours depending on traffic, and the cost is $3.50 per person. Most of the trip is along the Pan-American highway, with the last 28 km/45 miles heading into the mountain region.
From Panama City, buses depart for El Valle from 6:30 a.m. - 7:00 p.m., and from El Valle to Panama City from 3:45 a.m. - 3:50 p.m., Monday - Saturday. On Sundays, buses depart Panama City between 6:30 a.m. - 9:00 a.m. and again from 2:00 p.m. - 6:00 p.m., and from El Valle between 12:00 p.m. - 6:00 p.m. Tel. 983-6446 (El Valle) and 314-6862 (Panama City)
If you decide to stay after hours in El Valle, there are local buses that offer service until 6:00 p.m. - 7:00 p.m. that for $1.00 will transport you from El Valle to the Panamerican Highway, where you can get on any bus en route to Panama City.
