From the air, Boca del Drago's (Mouth of the
Dragon) perfectly curved beach looks like
someone took a bite out of Isla Colón's westernmost
tip. In keeping with the name, however, it
also looks like the entire island is the head
of a dragon whose open mouth, the curved beach,
is poised to spew flames onto the mainland.
At ground level, the beach is ample enough
for a long walk and is dotted with rocky patches
that harbor scuttling sea creatures.An open-air restaurant at Drago's southern end offers cold drinks and lunch among the towering coconut palms. An odd assortment of nearby cabins sometimes houses groups of biology students visiting from the United States or Canada. Dressed in fatigue pants and tall rubber boots, they seem to spend more time mucking around in the mangrove swamps than lounging on the beach. Over lunch they can be overheard comparing bug bites and the latest in outdoor gear. Extended just of the beach, just walking distance from the restaurant, lies the remains of what appears to have been a pier or dock. Limited to a few steel pilings, these structures serve as a stable platform for the numerous sea birds that frequent the area.
In the waters just off the beach, a patchy coral-and-sand sea bottom affords easy, shallow snorkeling when the sea is calm. Other good snorkeling can be had in the more protected waters off of Punta Rancho, accessible by launch to the south, where large brain-coral heads create mini-habitats for a large variety of tropical fish. Water visibility in the area ranges between 20-70ft, depending on weather conditions and time of year; the months between August-October tend to be the calmest. While there are no scuba diving or snorkeling outfitters in Boca del Drago, these services can be obtained in the town of Bocas by any one of several tour operators. Normally a full day tour to Drago includes lunch, snorkeling, and a trip to Swan Cay.
From Boca del Drago, a 20-minute launch ride over open ocean will take you north to Swan Cay (also called Isla de los Pájaros or Bird Island). The large ocean swells will probably thrill most travelers, but may cause some teeth clenching for anyone uncomfortable with sea travel in a small boat. The tiny island's leeward grotto offers a protected spot for observing the dense population of red-billed tropic birds and white-crowned pigeons that roost there, and care should be taken not to disturb them too much.
A wonderful way to get to get to Boca de Drago is by water. Arrange for a launch the day before at the docks in Bocas town. The 30-minute trip around the south edge of Isla Colón takes you through the calm, protected waters of Almirante Bay, partially straddled on both sides by thriving mangroves. Numerous south-side development projects, including a marina and hotels, are springing up along the mangrove-dotted coastline. While en route, the launch will take you northwest past Big Bight, Conch Point, Punta Rancho and Lime Point before rounding the corner to Boca del Drago.
Bus or taxi service will get you there by land and take you right through the middle of the island. Public buses offer roundtrip service between Boca del Drago and Bocas town for $3.00 roundtrip. The buses depart Boca del Drago on Monday, Wednesday and Friday during early morning hours, and return from Bocas town around midday. It is important to point out that the actual departure times vary considerably, and can not be guaranteed. Taxi's can be hired for $25.00 round trip. For the more adventurous, you can ride there on mountain bike, which takes about one hour; several local establishments in Bocas town rent bikes by the hour, half-day or full day. The dirt/gravel road passes through the islands' relatively flat interior, lined with farms and lush vegetation.
Written by Susan Harp
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